isthmus peak

New Zealand, 2024

Shot on Fuji X-T30II

When I put this hike as an option on our itinerary, all I knew was that it was an alternative track to Roy’s Peak and that some people thought it was the better option. I didn’t research the difficulty, what the trail looked like, or anything like that until maybe two days before (when my legs were still aching from the Lake Marian track).

This was a nearly 16km track which Alltrails describes as “challenging”, and I have to say the beginning was truly awful for me at the steep rocky section, and the first couple of bends on the switchbacks. Honestly, I think it was miserable primarily because of the sun which was beating down on us the entire time during these sections. That being said, I have zero technical ability to navigate any sort of unmanicured terrain, so the rocks were really tough for me and I was clutching on to the fence for dear life.

Beyond that, I didn’t think the hike was too tough, especially once we had gotten some relief from the sun. The return was significantly easier and faster — I remember being surprised that my knees didn’t feel strained on the way down. The Gwaneumsa trail on Mount Hallasan was definitely more demanding and painful, but it was also shaded during the difficult parts (and so was less miserable, in my opinion).

We didn’t expect to be able to make it to the top (well, almost) because we thought the snow would be too difficult to navigate, but it was actually fine most of the way until the last 400 metres before the actual peak. The last stretch would have been an easy and incredibly scenic walk along the ridge leading to Isthmus Peak, but the path was snowed all the way through and we ended up having to navigate on the outside of the fence. We stopped when it started to get a little scary and steep, which ended up being about 300-400 metres away from the peak, if that.

Definitely recommend this hike, although I personally would not attempt it in the summer because there’s almost no relief from the sun. Perfect in the winter time (with micro spikes!) and in milder weather. Maybe we’ll come back and try to reach the peak again!

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